Processing Regular 8 B&W

Post by **Taliesin** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 4:36 am

Where can I process Regular 8 B&W somewhere close like in NYC.
I live in Connecticut.

Post by **monobath** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 5:22 am

I process my own, so I don't really know any b&w processing labs. But I'd be willing to bet that you can find some possibilities by searching the forum here.

You might do better finding a lab if you don't restrict yourself to a particular geographic area. If there's a lab near you, that's great, but sending your film out in the mail for processing is also a pretty safe thing to do.

Post by **monobath** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 5:26 am

Oh yeah, I almost forgot. Click on "The Lab" up above. You might find some resources there. Even if a lab doesn't specifically state that they do regular 8mm, it might be emailing them or calling them to ask. It's the same size as 16mm film. Be sure to ask if they can slit it for you. Pac-Lab is in NYC.

Post by **ccortez** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 5:29 am

monobath wrote:I process my own, so I don't really know any b&w processing labs. But I'd be willing to bet that you can find some possibilities by searching the forum here.

You might do better finding a lab if you don't restrict yourself to a particular geographic area. If there's a lab near you, that's great, but sending your film out in the mail for processing is also a pretty safe thing to do.

I've been wondering about processing my own b/w R8... do you have a film slitter? Or is there a way to project it as 16mm and slit digitally? :?

Post by **monobath** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 5:53 am

I don't know about digital slitting... That sounds wild. Maybe one of Roger's 16mm WorkPrinters could be used to do the transfer. Maybe one of the editing program gurus around here might know if the images could be digitally slit.

I have mostly done S8 until quite recently. I shot some DR8 at Thanksgiving. I don't have a slitter yet. I've got a couple of processed rolls of DR8 waiting to be slit, and two more rolls that I just shot in my Bolex K2 waiting to be processed.

I've been looking for a slitter for some time, and I just found out a couple of days ago where I can get one. The old reliable sources were dried up for a while (Olexandr Kalynechenko, for example). But John Schwind has 'em right now, and I'm placing my order for one tomorrow, along with some of the new DR8 K40 and some Plus-X.

Website · Post by **BigBeaner** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 7:02 pm

Ya this is funny I'm plugging them once again and as of yet haven't got my precious tri-x back but http://www.cinelab.com Cinelab is in Boston try calling them up.

Post by **camera8mm** » Sat Feb 12, 2005 6:20 am

If you look on the 8mm metadirectory, there are plans to build your own film slitter.
I got mine (the russian made one) off ebay. I've seen a few camera shop sites out of england that have them.

on the b/w processing - do you use the t max kit or what for chemicals.
I process my own occasionally, but finding the reversal bleach is tough.

Post by **monobath** » Sat Feb 12, 2005 7:34 am

I always use the Kodak D-94 first developer, R-9 bleach, and CB-2 clearing bath mixed from bulk chemicals according to Kodak's published formula. I use Dektol 1:3 for the second developer. D-95 is the official Kodak second developer. I use whatever fixer I have on hand. Sometimes Kodak F24 fixer mixed from bulk (however, this is a nonhardening fixer and not the best choice), or sometimes F5 (the normal Kodak prepackaged fixer), but you can use any hardening fixer. Kokak or Ilford Rapid Fix with hardener would be fine.

Note that for Plus-X and Tri-X reversal film, the D-94 first developer and the potassium dichromate R-9 bleach are no longer recommended by Kodak. The new first developer is D-94A, and the R-10 bleach is a permanganate type. The new formulations are compatible with the new Plus-X and Tri-X films and the higher speed for Plus-X. I don't use the new formulations because I expose my Plus-X at ASA 50.

I've posted the D-94 / R-9 formulas a few times on this forum, but I'll go ahead and post them here again. I believe christoph has posted the D-94A and R-10 formulas in one of the past threads.

Then, of course, there's the horse's mouth:

Section 3 of this Kodak H24 Module 15 HTML document has the old D-94 / R-9 formulas.

Section 3 of this Kodak H24 Module 15 PDF document has the new D-94A / R-10 formulas.

From a previous thread ...

Developing Kodak B&W Reversal Film

The process given by Kodak is for processing movie film at 20C (68F):

First Developer, 2 min at 20C (68F)
Wash, 30 seconds (plain water, do NOT use a stop bath)
Bleach, 50 seconds
Wash, 30 seconds
Clearing Bath, 30 seconds
Wash, 30 seconds
Reexposure, 800 foot-candle seconds
Second Developer, 50 seconds
Wash, 30 seconds
Fixer, 50 seconds
Wash, 2 minutes

Formulas:

Kodak D-94

Water, 50 degrees C (125 F) 750 ml
Kodak Elon (Metol) 0.6 g
Sodium Sulfite (anhydrous) 50.0 g
Hyrdoquinone 20.0 g
Potassium Bromide (anhydrous) 8.0 g
(or 7.0 g Sodium Bromide)
Sodium Thiocyanate (liquid) 9.1 ml
Sodium Hydroxide 20.0 g
Water to make 1.0 L

Kodak Bleach R-9

Water 1.0 L
Potassium Dichromate (anhydrous) 9.5 g
Sulfuric Acid (Concentrated)* 12.0 ml
* CAUTION: Always add the sulfuric acid to the solution slowly, stirring
constantly, and never add the solution to the acid; otherwise, the solution
may boil and splatter the acid, causing serious burns.

(Note: I substitute 24.0 ml regular automotive battery acid for the 12.0 ml
concentrated Sulfuric Acid. I've also read somewhere that you can
substitute 66g Sodium Bisulfate for the Sulfuric Acid.)

Kodak Clearing Bath CB-2

Water 750 ml
Sodium Sulfite (anhydrous) 210.0 g
Water to make 1.0 L

You can use any hardening acid fixer that you have on hand. The official second developer is D-95, which formula you can find on Kodak's website, but I use Dektol 1:3.