Ektachrome 160 same as Tri-X B&W?

[sooper8fan]

A friend gave me a Bell & Howell camera that only reads the ASA 40 cartridges and Ektachrome ASA 160 cartridges. I only find Ektachrome 160 carts on eBay but I noticed that the Tri-X is ASA 200/160. Would I be able to run the Tri-X in my camera and have it expose properly? Thanks in advance!

-seth

[Mana]

You would probably need to switch the daylight filter off. Knowing the model you have could help others to chime in.

[sooper8fan]

You would probably need to switch the daylight filter off. Knowing the model you have could help others to chime in.

Oh yeah...with the Tri-X, is the 200 the ASA for artificial light and the 160 the ASA for daylight? or vice versa?

The camera is the Bell & Howell Director, Model 1206:
http://www.super8data.com/database/came ... l_1206.htm

Unfortunately does not have manual exposure control but does have a slot to insert the filter key for daylight/artificial light. Key is missing but I can make one.

Thanks for any help!

-seth

[MIKI-814]

Not exactly...

Most 40/160 cameras are 40T/160T AND consequently also 25D/100D. Tri-X cartedge is notched as 160D, not 160T. In your camera it would be overexposed a full stop (100D instead of 200D).

If you cut the notch in the cartridge to enable the filter and read it as 160T, you will expose it correctly but with a no. 85 filter in place, which affects the "colours" even if it's B&W film.

[sooper8fan]

Not exactly...

Most 40/160 cameras are 40T/160T AND consequently also 25D/100D. Tri-X cartedge is notched as 160D, not 160T. In your camera it would be overexposed a full stop (100D instead of 200D).

If you cut the notch in the cartridge to enable the filter and read it as 160T, you will expose it correctly but with a no. 85 filter in place, which affects the "colours" even if it's B&W film.

Thanks for that info. I know I've seen this before somewhere, but does anybody have the cartridge notching guide? A while back I saw an image or a graphic that you could print or something, and it showed exactly where you should notch a cartridge for a certain ASA.

If I did NOT use an 85 filter, would it really matter? I would be able to just make it black & white in post....there's no filter threads on the front of the lens. Cheap camera.

Lastly, if I were to just buy some of the old Ektachrome 160 film on eBay, does anybody know who would process it for me? From what I've found, I don't think the Ektachrome 160 processing is E6 processing. Can you confirm that? I don't think Dwayne's does any Ektachrome other than an E6 process.

Thanks!

[sooper8fan]

Oh, and also.......can someone explain the difference between a TYPE A film and a TYPE G film?

thanks again.

[Roster]

With Type G film, you did not need any color temp correction filter. You just shot it in daylight or indoors (with tungsten lighting) without worrying about a filter.

I remember I did not like the Type G stock very much. I preferred the 160 Type A (filter needed in daylight conditions) for the rare occasions I had to use it instead of Kodachrome. But I may not have had a choice. I can't remember if the Type A was discontinued when the Type G was introduced (we're talking 1970's here).

Others seemed to have loved it. In any event, I imagine Type G was discontinued a long time ago. I also think it required a process other than E6, which means it can't be developed today other than, perhaps, by some specialist like Plattsburgh Photo.

[Mana]

Thanks for that info. I know I've seen this before somewhere, but does anybody have the cartridge notching guide? A while back I saw an image or a graphic that you could print or something, and it showed exactly where you should notch a cartridge for a certain ASA.

Peaceman.de for the notch ruler, or anything else for that matter. That guy is awesome!

[Actor]

Oh, and also.......can someone explain the difference between a TYPE A film and a TYPE G film?

thanks again.

As it was explained to me, Type G is a compromise film that looks equally bad in both daylight and tungsten. :lol:

[Muckymuck]

Don't waste money on outdated film unless you want colour shifts for artistic effect. Use Ektachrome 100D. Many 40T/160T will read it correctly. Even if not, 100D has great exposure latitude. The 2/3 stop underexposure looks fantastic when shot on a sunny day- the colours are very brightly saturated. Try it and see!

[Angus]

Oh, and also.......can someone explain the difference between a TYPE A film and a TYPE G film?

thanks again.

As it was explained to me, Type G is a compromise film that looks equally bad in both daylight and tungsten. :lol:

Pretty accurate description. It tended to look brown and muddy, I shot a few carts in the late 80's. What you could say is that it did what it was supposed to do....produce acceptable home movies in sunlight and artificial light without worrying about filters - a product for the masses and not for knowledgable enthusiasts. What might have been acceptable to Joe Blow in the 1970's wasn't really good enough for enthusiasts and certainly not for pros.

Type A film is the traditional but now defunkt (in super 8) idea of film balanced for artificial light which requires a filter to work correctly in daylight. Kodachrome 40 was Type A, as were most of the Ektachrome films.

[MIKI-814]

Old type A = type T nowadays (tungsten)

[nickrapak]

Old type A = type T nowadays (tungsten)

Not exactly. Kodak combined type A and B into type T some time ago. Type A was balanced for 3200K lights, and Type B for 3400K. Most cine films are the old Type A, the exception being Ektachrome 64T, which was cut down from the Type B still stock.