Scoopic sync?

[adamgarner]

I was curious what results people have gotten sound sync'ing with a scoopic 16M (that has no crystal sync custom add). Anyone noticed how much slip to expect if any?

I have read posts about bolexes that held great sync without crystal sync.

I understand it won't be perfect, of course. Just curious what folks have noticed if they've tried it.

Also, I'll be double clapping any dialogue so tce is easy in fcp and soundtrack.

[Will2]

No problems on short segments. You'll always have to do some minor adjustments in FCP but I've found sync to stay ok for a minute or slightly more without to much adjustment.

What are you using to record audio? I've used semi-pro DV camcorders with good mics & preamps fed in through XLRs. Audio is every bit as good as DAT or miniDisc and gives you an added benefit of a visual reference if you set it up that way.

Are you planing on using Soundtrack to remove some of the camera noise? I've been moderately successful with that but it does effect the quality of the voices. Might be good for reference then have people do VO.

A suggestion would be to close mic your subjects as much as possible; should be easier to isolate camera noise that way.

I'm surprised your Scoopic is quiet enough to shoot sync. Even after maintenance by a good tech mine still squeaks like a trapped mouse.

[adamgarner]

1m shot is perfect. I expect a bit of finessing in fcp though.

I'll barney the scoopic and shoot dialogue from far away, zoomed. Also I capture sound on a Zoom H4. It's got 2 xlr inputs so I'll be using a directional mic. That will help with sound too.

Soundtrack does have some strange results filtering out sound patterns. I'll try and limit the squealing as much as humanly possible. I believe it's possible. Not simple but totally doable.

[Will2]

Are you using your Scoopic for weddings now?

Love your Super 8 work on your site. Always thought there would be a (small but well paying) market for 16mm in weddings. I wish mine had been done on film.

[adamgarner]

Thanks! Yes I have planned on offering 16mm as a package. I think that it's be gorgeous. Though S8 is probably cooler since it's so much more vintage looking. I think that's what we all love about it right?

[MovieStuff]

Thanks! Yes I have planned on offering 16mm as a package. I think that it's be gorgeous. Though S8 is probably cooler since it's so much more vintage looking. I think that's what we all love about it right?

Just shoot 16mm reversal a bit wider than normal and crop into an 8mm size section of the film. We have transferred a variety of film like this for people doing docs that wanted the super 8 look but were afraid of jittery images. Also, shooting like that lets you re-frame your composition after you get into post, especially if you transfer to HD and are releasing in SD. Works great and looks just like good super 8 or 8mm original, only rock steady without the hassle.

Roger

[Will2]

E100D in 16mm is definitely closest to that vintage look, but I really miss Kodachrome in 16mm. It was the best of both worlds; sharp with excellent definition and colors out of the 1940's.

My favorite stock right now in 16mm is Double-X B&W negative. Nice and grainy. Certainly works for an artsy look and would probably be amazing for a wedding. Just make sure any transfer house doesn't try to "de-noise" the grain out. I've had Tri-X come back looking like black & white video after a colorist took it upon himself to crank up the noise reduction.

[adamgarner]

I'm surprised your Scoopic is quiet enough to shoot sync. Even after maintenance by a good tech mine still squeaks like a trapped mouse.

I just got my scoopic 16M today and I have to say it runs much quieter than I'd expected! Now, it may be a little louder with film in it, but it's a nice low "grumble" as opposed to a hi-pitched squeak. A squeak would be very difficult to filter, but a low grumble is SO much less of an issue. It's very subtle, and I think with a barney it may be perfect.

I see what people were talking about, now, with the viewfinder going dark according to T-stop. Not the greatest, but workable. I guess I won't be using high-speed film just for the hell of it anymore. That closes up the aperture so it's almost black! The viewfinder, overall is really nice and bright, as well as big! Wonder if bernie at super16inc would brighten that up to help?

I'm really excited about shooting some 250D now!!!

[Will2]

I do this thing where I manually twist it all the way open then focus, then use the auto iris to meter it down then flip to manual so it won't breathe. When you do it enough it becomes routine and you can get some cool transitions to use in editing if you roll film while the auto-iris adjusts.

I've always found the meter to be great and the lens to be amazingly sharp.

250D will rock, but also try out some 50D on a bright day; it's amazing.

[adamgarner]

you can get some cool transitions to use in editing if you roll film while the auto-iris adjusts

Do you mean because it darkens and lightens the resulting footage? OR, do you mean if you just punch the button and the iris takes a second to read/set? I thought about that today!

Don't forget about the button by your right pinkie, which opens the aperture up FOR you. I found that today and imagine it a god-send during quick shooting/focusing. Though, my solution... I sent my new 16M to Bernie to do the laser brighten on the viewfinder so I didn't have to worry about the viewfinder darkening SO much. Additionally he's converting to u16. I'm psyched.

I will definitely try the V2-50D! Bet it's amazing.

Now I need to find a wide-angle. I read that century optics made one with a 72mm also. Keeping my eyes open.

[gahoona]

the way ive found around the darkening viewfinder is to make an alternative finder. Just pvc pipe, from the eyepiece (above) along theside of the battery to the beginning of the lense . it is perfectly centred for at least using as like a sportsfinder for outdoors even at 75mm. Works great and takes the wonder out of what you shooting. (ie.I wonder if its in frame). Good buy, you wont be disapointed

[Will2]

you just punch the button and the iris takes a second to read/set?

Yes... I was doing that by accident; pushing the trigger all the way in before it had time to reset and I wound up with these transitions from all white to normal exposure. Messes with the colorists sometimes so let them know to expect it.

Don't forget about the button by your right pinkie, which opens the aperture up FOR you.

I had no idea, I will start using it!

Now I need to find a wide-angle.

That's a hard one to find. I haven't missed it really; 12.5 is pretty wide. I was able to find the 400' adapter and a 400' magazine easier than that wide angle from Canon.

the way ive found around the darkening viewfinder is to make an alternative finder. Just pvc

Useful for framing but focus is my main concern. I'd be sticking with my Kodak K-100 if it would allow me to critically focus.

[adamgarner]

the viewfinder going dark is such a weird thing to get used to. I'm not sure if it's a good or bad thing.

It certainly helps me keep from using high-speed film in bright conditions. As soon as the aperture goes up to around 15, I can't see too much. For DOF and probably even image sharpness you'd want to keep the aperture from 5-10 anyway right? So, the scoopic helps with that by not letting you SEE images over a T15 exposure very well...

Like I mentioned, the button by your pinkie (called the "aperature opening button" is designed to quickly open the aperture up for quick focusing. This is a tricky step to get used to if you're used to point and shoot like super8. You also have take the step of letting the aperture re-set after focusing or you get the "blow-out transitions." (they suggest wrapping your left hand around to push that button by the way... right before you use your left to focus).

I'm not entirely sure if this is all by design or not. Like I said, it adds 2 extra steps to getting a shot. It also makes it really difficult to refocus DURING a shot.

This is why I'm crossing my fingers that Bernie's Laser Brighten will double the intensity of the viewfinder. This would allow me to shoot with the aperture closed up almost 22 and still be able to focus critically. Mucho importante for run-and-gun stuff like weddings or docs.

[Will2]

Bernie's Laser Brighten

Let us know, he did my K3 and it made a major difference in the viewfinder.

He serviced my Scoopic MS but I opted to not do the Laser Brighten to save a few bucks.

Focus is always my biggest issue with the Scoopic. When you get it right, it's extremely sharp. But getting it right handheld with moving subjects is not easy.

[sk360]

You could do almost the same thing Roger recommends with Snapz ProX.