Nizo 801 Q's

[ccortez]

All,

First, thanks for the thriving and lively community of filmshooters I found here when I started researching Super8. The depth and quality of information I've found here in fantastic!

I recently bought a Nizo 801 (silver, non-macro) on eBay for a song b/c the battery box was missing and the seller didn't know if it worked. My battery box came today from Germany, and the good news is that it works! replaced the main batteries and the light meter batteries and everything seems in order. I guess I'll know much more after I get a reel back from the lab...

Here are my questions:

1. Should the camera run for a second or so (literally between 1 and 2 seconds) after I release the trigger? It starts smoothly and immediately when I engage it, but takes a second to stop filming after release. Sound familiar to anyone?

2. This camera is missing an eyecup. Do I have to buy a Nizo one, or are there aftermarket eyecups that would/might fit (even if maybe I have to use gaff tape)?

I'm sure I'll have more questions soon, but for now I'll thank you in advance for the help.

Best regards,
Chris Cortez

cpc@slowkid.com

[geffen]

Wow!
Sound exactly like my cam - same model, same problem.
I bought it couple of months ago, and it also is missing a battery box, so unfortunately I cannot check if it works.

Would you be so kind and write how did you find-got battery box?

About an eyecup: I've got one spare.
The same type of eyecup comes with Nizo Integral - don't know if all models, but 7 for sure. You can get it for next to nothing off ebay.

[ultramarine]

Yes, my 801 (and 481) stoppes filming after a second also. I don't know if it is a problem (of the camera), it's not a problem for me though.

[aj]

1. Should the camera run for a second or so (literally between 1 and 2 seconds) after I release the trigger? It starts smoothly and immediately when I engage it, but takes a second to stop filming after release. Sound familiar to anyone?

The sticky trigger is a standard complaint with these types of Nizo.

I had it quite badly on a Nizo Professional.

You need to regenerate some components in the circuits. Much like a flash condensator. It probably are the electrolytic condensators in the camera circuit.

Put the camera on single frame and set the timer for a 5 sec interval. Lock the trigger and leave it shooting for 15 min. After that check the trigger in continous shooting. The stick time will get shorter. Redo this until it is gone. This may take 4- 10 times.

It worked for my Professional.
And it remained in good condition after that. Six months ago

[ccortez]

>> Would you be so kind and write how did you find-got battery box?

I ordered mine from here: http://www.super8camera-shop.com. Great service!

There's also this reply I got:

> I have a spare battery pack (perfect condition) $75.00
> If interested let me know.
> Regards and thanks for inquiring
> Jeff Gal
> Du-All Camera
> 212-643-1042

$75 is an awful lot -- I ordered mine from the URL above, in Germany, and it only cost ~$40 including shipping IIRC.

I'll start looking for an eyecup, and if I find more batteries I'll let you know.

Best regards,
Chris

[ccortez]

1. Should the camera run for a second or so (literally between 1 and 2 seconds) after I release the trigger? It starts smoothly and immediately when I engage it, but takes a second to stop filming after release. Sound familiar to anyone?

The sticky trigger is a standard complaint with these types of Nizo.

I had it quite badly on a Professional.

You need to regenerate some components in the circuits. Much like a flash condensator. It probably are the electrolytic condensators in the camera circuit.

Put the camera on single frame and set the timer for a 5 sec interval. Lock the trigger and leave it shooting for 15 min. After that check the trigger in continous shooting. The stick time will get shorter. Redo this until it is gone. This may take 4- 10 times.

It worked for my Professional.

Many thanks! I will try that today and let the list know the results...

Chris

[ccortez]

Thanks, Andre! Worked like a charm...

I only had to repeat the procedure twice. After the first time, it was markedly better. After the second, it feels really great. Will probably save 50 frames per release over the way it was working before!

Now if I can only figure out why the light meter stopped working after the first day of shooting with brand new batteries. Oh well, I've got plenty of light meters... ;-)

Best to all,
Chris

[aj]

Make sure to check the position of all lightmeter involved knobs :!:

All on the red dot

[ccortez]

Still nothing. In fact, when I move the dial for manual settings I see no change thru the viewfinder. It did work the first day, when I put the new light meter batteries in -- when I pushed the test button, the needle would move over; on automatic, when I pointed at the sky, the indicator would adjust... but I don't know when it stopped working. The little needle doesn't move at all anymore. I don't even know how I'll set it manually if it doesn't tell me what my dial is doing... (does that make sense?)

c.

[ultramarine]

Still nothing. In fact, when I move the dial for manual settings I see no change thru the viewfinder. It did work the first day, when I put the new light meter batteries in -- when I pushed the test button, the needle would move over; on automatic, when I pointed at the sky, the indicator would adjust... but I don't know when it stopped working. The little needle doesn't move at all anymore. I don't even know how I'll set it manually if it doesn't tell me what my dial is doing... (does that make sense?)

c.

Have you opened the camera? If yes, that's probably the reason, if no, it's time to open it!
Try adjusting the knob while the camera is opened . Try to clean the area with a small piece of cotton (with alcohol). Do you see any movement now? If yes, put back the cover VERY CAREFULLY. Especially the auto/manual knob is very very sensitive.

Haven't tried Andre's tip but something says to me that it will work for sure! I bought from Ebay a "dead" integral 10 and the camera ressurected just because I was very persistent pressing the trigger!

[ultramarine]

... and YES, it worked! Thanks for the tip Andre. Couldn't think of it in the first place...

[ccortez]

Have you opened the camera? If yes, that's probably the reason, if no, it's time to open it!
Try adjusting the knob while the camera is opened . Try to clean the area with a small piece of cotton (with alcohol). Do you see any movement now? If yes, put back the cover VERY CAREFULLY. Especially the auto/manual knob is very very sensitive.

Haven't tried Andre's tip but something says to me that it will work for sure! I bought from Ebay a "dead" integral 10 and the camera ressurected just because I was very persistent pressing the trigger!

Open it? Hmm, that is tempting.

Looks like all the panels are independently removable. Which, if any/all, should I remove? What exactly am I looking for to clean with cotton and alcohol?

I do take things apart and fix them from time to time, but I'd really like to avoid taking this apart and breaking it! ;-)

c.

[ccortez]

I did some searching through the forums... can't say I find anybody else recommending taking the screwdriver to this baby. Everyone seems to suggest that Nizo internals are quantum physics.

Of course, the camera is next to useless even with an external light meter (which I plan to use anyway) if I can't dial thru the F-stops. Is the little needle just stuck in there?

I don't want to send this to Germany or something if there's a simple fix, but I don't want to spend the weekend picking up microscopic springs and gears from my studio floor, either! 8O

I suppose this is a "hold my hand, please" type of request. Any and all suggestions appreciated...

c.

[ultramarine]

I did some searching through the forums... can't say I find anybody else recommending taking the screwdriver to this baby. Everyone seems to suggest that Nizo internals are quantum physics.

Of course, the camera is next to useless even with an external light meter (which I plan to use anyway) if I can't dial thru the F-stops. Is the little needle just stuck in there?

I don't want to send this to Germany or something if there's a simple fix, but I don't want to spend the weekend picking up microscopic springs and gears from my studio floor, either! 8O

I suppose this is a "hold my hand, please" type of request. Any and all suggestions appreciated...

c.

No, it's not Quantum Physics! All I suggest is open the front cover (4 little screws, two of them are bigger than the others) and do some cleaning with just drops of alcohol in a small piece of cotton to remove dust. That way I managed to revive the fps knob in my 801. (It was "stuck" in 18 fps).
The only thing to have in mind is the proper posision of knobs. Just don't turn it upside down while it's opened.
And I'm not an electical engineer, just Computer Networks Engineer...
You can send it in Germany but be prepared of the costs. It's more than you think! Of course if you got money...
Besides, I think that 45 $ for a battery pack is a lot of money! You could buy another NIZO for less (OK,not the 801) and use the battery pack from that one. (Almost) all battery packs are the same for Nizos: 480, 481, 560 etc. Mine costed 51 euros, (I'm talking about a black 801 Macro!) just because of that "stuck" knob! Now, after the cleaning she works perfectly!

[Taqi]

There are some photos of a Nizo (Professional?) with its side removed starting here:
http://www.8mm.filmshooting.com/scripts ... s/IMGA0151

I think it might be Andreas's...

I've never taken my Nizo to bits but from these pictures it looks as though it won't explode in a shower of springs etc just from taking the side off...

Good luck