getting started
Moderator: Andreas Wideroe
-
Guest
getting started
I recently aquired a bolex reflex camera, but the light meter does not seem to work properly. I bought a few rolls of fomapan r-100 to test the camera and would like to know an approxamate f-stop for standard daylight filming, or get some advice for a good light meter, any suggestions?
Do you know the F16 rule....From still photography?
The rule is this: F16= one /over the film speed for bright sunny days.
The one part becomes the shutter speed. I'm not sure of your films
ASA / ISO (SPEED) but It would become the bottom number.
Let's give this a try with everybody favorite film, KODACHROME with
your 85 filter in place Kodachrome/40 becomes ASA /ISO 25 F16= 1/25TH OF A SECOND Your shutter speed is probably 1/60th of a second.
The F stop Range looks like this:
F 22, 16, 11, 8, 5.6, 4.0, 2.8, 2.0
SHUTTER SPEEDS on still cameras look like this:1/1000 of a second, 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8. 1/4, 1/2, and 1 full second.
If you want to give your film one half the light level via shutter speed, moving from 1/30 of a second to 1/60, you need to open the lens up by one F Stop F11 at 1/60 of a second.
(1/60 is 24 FPS on my camera)*
frames per second and shutter angel play a big part in getting a correct exposure.
OTHER RULES OF THUMB:SHADE under a tree or where the sun is
blocked by a house could drop your reading by 3-1/2 stops. It can
very depending on light bounding from light objects or being absorbed by dark surroundings So now we are at a 2.8 F4 split.
Films like Kodachrome and other transparency films, films meant for
direct viewing or projection are more contrasty and exposure is more problematic than shooting with negative stocks.
This might be way over the top...get a good used meter on ebay
and learn to use it.
That's probably what I should have started out saying.
The rule is this: F16= one /over the film speed for bright sunny days.
The one part becomes the shutter speed. I'm not sure of your films
ASA / ISO (SPEED) but It would become the bottom number.
Let's give this a try with everybody favorite film, KODACHROME with
your 85 filter in place Kodachrome/40 becomes ASA /ISO 25 F16= 1/25TH OF A SECOND Your shutter speed is probably 1/60th of a second.
The F stop Range looks like this:
F 22, 16, 11, 8, 5.6, 4.0, 2.8, 2.0
SHUTTER SPEEDS on still cameras look like this:1/1000 of a second, 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8. 1/4, 1/2, and 1 full second.
If you want to give your film one half the light level via shutter speed, moving from 1/30 of a second to 1/60, you need to open the lens up by one F Stop F11 at 1/60 of a second.
(1/60 is 24 FPS on my camera)*
frames per second and shutter angel play a big part in getting a correct exposure.
OTHER RULES OF THUMB:SHADE under a tree or where the sun is
blocked by a house could drop your reading by 3-1/2 stops. It can
very depending on light bounding from light objects or being absorbed by dark surroundings So now we are at a 2.8 F4 split.
Films like Kodachrome and other transparency films, films meant for
direct viewing or projection are more contrasty and exposure is more problematic than shooting with negative stocks.
This might be way over the top...get a good used meter on ebay
and learn to use it.
That's probably what I should have started out saying.
100 ASA
100 ASA can be too fast on bright days. You may want to try a nice B & W yellow or red filter, both for effect and to step it down.