Recommend me a good tape splicer?

[Will2]

This post has evolved past a splicer recommendation but I have to put in for the Maier-Hancock Hot Splicer...

These are really heavy-duty work horses and used to be expensive. Now you can find them on eBay for under $100. I've used the 35mm and 16mm but haven't spliced Super 8 with one...not sure if there is a Super 8 but regular 8 for sure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kr8T8f2RaWI

[sciolist]

The Super 8 version of the Maier-Hancock hot splicer is the model 816-S. It accommodates 16mm and regular 8mm film and, through the use of retractable pins in the bed, Super 8.

[BAC]

I've never used a hot splicer so correct me if I'm wrong but it uses heat to cure the cement faster? Watching the video above it does work fast but it looks like only the emulsion side of the film is scraped which is similar to most other cement splicers. This is why I prefer the Bolex Beveled Cement Splicer and the Bauer K 20, it scrapes both ends of the film to a beveled edge. This makes a very smooth splice when it passes through the projector gate. It doesn't sound like Patrick is not going to be projecting his film other than to transfer it to digital so that is probably not an issue for him. The nice thing about tape splices is they can be taken apart without loosing frames which may be better for him if he needs to change something during his editing. The Ciro-Guillotine tape splicer or CIR Catozzo is probably the best tape splicer since it punches the holes and you don't need to line up pre-punched holes. The tape is also readily available and the splicers are fairly common. The metal ones are best and cost the most but the plastic version works fine, especially if it's only going to be used on the one project.

[Will2]

The hot splicer concept does simply dry the cement faster...you don't actually need to plug it in but it helps when you a are in a hurry or have tons of splicing to do. It makes a great, clean, rock solid splice. I replaced a ton of tape splices over the years with the cement splices. Once you get a rhythm down it's quite fast and lasts much longer than tape splices.

Obviously with a cement splicer you don't need to punch holes because it lines up perfectly with the existing holes and creates a tiny overlap for the cement. I'm actually surprised at how strong the splice is with such a tiny overlap.

These Maier-Hancock splicers are the working man's everyday professional splicer used in labs and telecine houses all over in the U.S.

Of course the ultra-sonic splicer actually merges the film and makes an unbreakable bond but only works on polyester film. I knew a Single-8 (Fuji) shooting guy who loved those things.

[David M. Leugers]

Just like to "amen" on Will's comments about the Maier-Hancock (Bell + Howell) splicers and to add that with cement splices you never have to worry about the splices coming undone using film cleaner. One can use Filmguard or soak films in FilmRenew without issue. To me this is critical to preserving my films and presenting the best image weather projecting or transferring to digital. Besides, I find it a lot of fun making cement splices. If you need to make tape splices I think the Wurker makes the best "invisible" tape splice with the Fujica metal tape splicer a close second. The Fujica metal splicer works so well it is a pleasure to use. The cost of a new roll of splice tapes for it is a little high but are still available and will provide the average film shooter enough splices to last quite awhile.

[Craig05]

Can the Fujica tape splicer handle both Regular 8mm & Super 8mm film?

[David M. Leugers]

The Fujica splicer is for Super-8mm (Fuji Single 8mm) film. If they ever made a splicer capable of splicing R-8mm film I have never seen one. Even if they did, the special tape splices are not available. The Wurker has R-8mm tape splicer and tapes that are as "invisible" as their S-8mm splices but the tapes do not cover the sprocket holes. This always bothered me expecting disaster during projection, but in practice they do work well.

[Will2]

If you have a lot of splices to make, cement splicers are actually pretty quick once you get a rhythm. I spent an afternoon fixing years of bad tape splices on some 16mm prints and it was such a zen feeling when I was done to know these new splices would last. I also put them through a film cleaner at my local transfer shop with no worries about it falling apart.

If you only have one splice to make and you are in a hurry I totally get using a tape splicer.

[Will2]

Here's a friend of mine at Filmworker's Club in Dallas making some cement splices for me on some old prints...



This splicer is not intuitive at all; you can't just look at and understand how it works. But once someone shows you how it's done it makes perfect sense.

[BAC]

This splicer is not intuitive at all; you can't just look at and understand how it works. But once someone shows you how it's done it makes perfect sense.

That applies to many cement splicers, it really helps to have the instructions. It took me a while to figure out the Revere Curv-A-Matic, a good 8mm splicer but kind of confusing.