to T-Scan: Canon 814XLS with Vision2 200T

[Lunar07]

How about filing the edge of the speed notch so that the 200T cart is read by your canon at 160D/250T as is the case with the TriX? You need to file almost 1/10". In this case, this camera should meter it at 160 with filter out of path.

Canon 814XLS- Things work a little different than the Nizo. First off, the 814xls will read the whole spectrum of ASA up to 400. BUT, this camera WILL go +2/3rds when the filter pin is pushed in (I tested it manually) And when the filter pin is pushed in, there is obviously no change when the manual filter switch is used. If a cartridge DOES have a filter notch, the meter will go -2/3rds when you manually disable the filter by switching to Bulb. With the 814xls, I am back to square one with the 200T being exposed as 100ASA, PlusX is still 100ASA, Tri X will default to 160ASA. 500T will default to 320ASA.

[S8 Booster]

i usually cut out the filter notch to make the camera read it as 160T/100D as follows:

[Lunar07]

i usually cut out the filter notch to make the camera read it as 160T/100D as follows:

Yes, but some users prefer the use of the external 85B filter.
Since we are at it: what is Vision2 500T notched at?

[S8 Booster]

i usually cut out the filter notch to make the camera read it as 160T/100D as follows:

Yes, but some users prefer the use of the external 85B filter.
Since we are at it: what is Vision2 500T notched at?

cut a fil notch and put the cam to "T" (bulb) n you shoot 160 and put an 85B on the lenz top - voilá.....

an possibly drop it by1/3 to expose it spot on.


the 500 is notched 640 but no fil notch = 400.

shoot.....

[Lunar07]

i usually cut out the filter notch to make the camera read it as 160T/100D as follows:

Yes, but some users prefer the use of the external 85B filter.
Since we are at it: what is Vision2 500T notched at?

cut a fil notch and put the cam to "T" (bulb) n you shoot 160 and put an 85B on the lenz top - voilá.....

You are right s8 booster. Cutting a filter notch and switching filter to B will do it.

the 500 is notched 640 but no fil notch = 400.

Thanks!

[T-Scan]

Cutting a filter notch will put it at 160/100 with the 814XLS. I can live with that for the 1/3rd overexposure.

[S8 Booster]

additionally;dropping the exposure by -1/3 via the exposure compensation dial will set the cam very close to 200 as well.

shoot....

[T-Scan]

additionally;dropping the exposure by -1/3 via the exposure compensation dial will set the cam very close to 200 as well.

shoot....

Ahh yes, the compensation dial... can meter up to +/- 1 full stop from what the notch is reading.

[Lunar07]

additionally;dropping the exposure by -1/3 via the exposure compensation dial will set the cam very close to 200 as well.

shoot....

Ahh yes, the compensation dial... can meter up to +/- 1 full stop from what the notch is reading.

Does the Nizo 481 Macro have a +1/-1 compensation dial?

[T-Scan]

On the Nizo, it's just a +1 stop button that you hold in. The XLS's have a dial in +/- 1/3rd increments up to 1 stop from what your cart is being read as. So if a cart is reading as 160ASA, I can set the dial to -1/3 and now it's being read as 200ASA.

[Dario]

Cutting a filter notch will put it at 160/100 with the 814XLS. I can live with that for the 1/3rd overexposure.

Let's see if I got this:
I'm using a Canon 814 autozoom electronic. By cutting the filter notch and using the internal filter for outdoor shooting, will the V2 200T be exposed at 100 ASA? Under daylight with an 85 filter it will have an effective ASA 125, and will overexpose by 1/3 stop?

[T-Scan]

Cutting a filter notch will put it at 160/100 with the 814XLS. I can live with that for the 1/3rd overexposure.

Let's see if I got this:
I'm using a Canon 814 autozoom electronic. By cutting the filter notch and using the internal filter for outdoor shooting, will the V2 200T be exposed at 100 ASA? Under daylight with an 85 filter it will have an effective ASA 125, and will overexpose by 1/3 stop?

Yes-

[Mitch Perkins]

Not meaning to pooh pooh the topic here, but I'm surprised so many of the long-time S8 shooters here worry about auto-exp readings, especially with the negs - there is so much latitude, the Sunny 16 rule has really worked for me. Honestly, it's like the concept of 1/3 of a stop doesn't even exist...

I only say this for newbies who might be put off by the apparent need for such precision.

Mitch

[audadvnc]

I agree with mitch. I've been out shooting b&w stills with an old Zeiss Ikoflex 6x6 camera and don't even bother to take the light meter these days. Sunny 16 works fine with negative films. It's something you can do in your head:

Bright sun - 1/ASA at f/16;
Light haze, light overcast, cloudy, stormy - lose 1 stop each;
Shade - 3 or 4 stops from open sky;
Indoors - open all the way

[Jim Carlile]

Cutting a filter notch will put it at 160/100 with the 814XLS. I can live with that for the 1/3rd overexposure.

Let's see if I got this:
I'm using a Canon 814 autozoom electronic. By cutting the filter notch and using the internal filter for outdoor shooting, will the V2 200T be exposed at 100 ASA? Under daylight with an 85 filter it will have an effective ASA 125, and will overexpose by 1/3 stop?

Yes-

It's not quite that easy. '125' has nothing to do with it.

If you cut a filter notch the camera will read VISION 200T at 160 ASA because that's the way Kodak cuts it. With the inline 85 in place, the film is exposed at an effective 100 ASA, which means only that it's treated like a straight 100 ASA film in regards to light sensitivity. It's still considered a 160 ASA film and metered as such by the camera. The reason for the difference is that the 85 filter creates a light loss of 2/3 stop (ASA 100 is about 2/3 stop less than ASA 160-- that's why it's called an "effective" ASA.)

The same 1/3 stop general overexposure will occur, because the 1/3 stop difference between the rated ASA and the metered ASA remains (200 to 160.) With the 85 filter in place, the film is going to treated like an effective ASA of 100 instead of 125-- not much of a difference, but the 125 rating doesn't mean anything. What only matters is how the meter gauges the film, and that's as a 160 ASA with a filter in place.

The reason why this distinction is important to keep in mind is because another issue comes up when the cartridge is kept notchless. In that case, many cameras treat the film as 100 ASA daylight from the beginning. It's a real difference, too, because if an 85 external filter is used, another 2/3 stop is lost over and above the difference between the ASA the camera sees and the film's rated ASA of 200.

In low light situations what can end up happening is that either the meter thinks the ASA of the film is not sufficient for the light level, or the meter sets the aperture to large f/stops that may not be desirable. Even though the film is 200 ASA, the meter will treat it as if it is about 64 (or, 100 ASA with another 2/3 stop filter in the way.) That can present problems in some situations.

In the old days people thought that if they just toggled back and forth with the filter switch on cartridges, or put a filter on the lens, everything would turn out right. But it led to lots of confusion and incorrectly exposed film.