Filmshooting

I reverse develop Plus-X and Tri-X both the same time: 6 to 7 minutes with the first development, depending on how often I had used the developer (D-94 I use) already (1st film 6 min, 2nd 6,5 min, 3rd 7 min). Always worked well.

I can't speak for fomopan ...

Fomapan sells 10 m on the reel - says so on the box. As the distance between perforation holes isn't as big as on Super 8 and you might be filming on 16 fps you are getting some good projection time out of it.

About 30 year old Agfa Super 8 film stock in my possession has faded in colour; it has a pinkish tint; no other degradation visible.

The main switch is a dial on the side of the camera with the settings "0" (= off), dot (= on), "+" (= on with backlight correction). You can not really miss it and I suspect that the camera you are talking about is not working because of another reason: very common with Eumig Min...

Yes, it gives very nice results.
You have to do the following settings: disengage the filter manually with the filter key; only film on the setting "+" - if you film with the main switch on the dot setting you will get slightly underexposed footage.

Hi Scot! Just yesterday I stumbled over this: http://web.archive.org/web/20081224024032/http://homepage.mac.com/onsuper8/diytelecine/projection.html Unfortunately it is not an actual web page anymore, but via web archive you can open all pages of the description on the self built telecine unit. Seem...

Funny stuff you did there! Shows once again how superb Standard 8 can look.
I am quite sure that the white stripes across the frames after each time you start a new scene is because of a light leak in the film compartment door. Have a close look, you might be able to find the fault.

According to the Canon Camera Museum there is manual cancellation of the internal filter on the AZ 518 SV as well.

Great! What film stock did you use?

Hi Chris! So if I am shooting TRI-X it would be advisable to set the camera on the bulb/artificial light setting so the camera is reading 160asa instead of 100asa. Then I can add my own yellow filter. I am sorry but you can't really do this. The camera is non TTL, so when you put your yellow filter ...

You can use the Tri-X in the Eumig Nautica without any adjustments, no problem. The camera has an internal orange filter, which is engaged when the switch in the film compartment is on the sun symbol and disengaged when the switch is on the bulb symbol - so when you put the switch on the sun symbol ...

As far as I can see this camera has not through the lens metering but a separate "window" to measure for the correct aperture. I would suggest that you put a ND2 filter in front of the main lens, which would have the effect that you overexpose 1/3 of a stop. This shouldn't matter too much....

There isn't much of a description, it just says that there are two parts of the Synputer coming with the Goko viewer; it is possible to do synchronisation same speed as the film goes or alternatively off speed. The pictures make it clear that the synchronisation is done via pulses or perforated tape.

Thank you Jörg! The magnetofon web page I did find but it doesn't give any clue about the practical value of the system. The megativ web site is new to me - it explains why nobody but you on this forum has replied: the Synputer was made in Vienna and it seems they never really got international. ...

Anybody knows this system?
http://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und- ... d=39181560