Filmshooting

I'd like to see the effect of daylight w/ Tungsten fill light on B&W. I wonder if the Tlight will have an edgier/ or more harsh look. Post us some film when you get a chance., It will take some time before processing and scanning, but I surely will. BTW, I m interested in these fluorescent ligh...

I finished shooting my short today (a three days shoot). I used quite a lot of Tungsten, often mixed with day light (on Tri x). What amazed me so was that daylight is so strong. Even in shadows I got very good readings on my light meter while I sometimes had to use a lot of Tungstens to get the same...

Hi Juergen,

Exactly; the one with the yellow ring, which can be seen when a lens barrel has been pushed foreward..

Paul

Hi

How does the macro setting work on this camera?

I suppose, focus barrel set to infinity, and then focus with zoom?

Right?

Thanks!

interesting article. I just wondered if one discusses ones idea so openly, it might get stolen...

I think I have a good idea for a good film project, but I wouldn't put it on the internet for that purpose..

Paul

nobody?

Does anyone have this manual for me?
It's for the "non-xl" model.

thanks,

Paul

Good luck John! I respect your guts to make a feature and hope it will be succesfull. It will always be succesfull as a great learning experience.

What format are you using for recording. Dit you shoot on film or on video?

Paul

Hi Paul, correct me if I am wrong, but what I understand you as asking is a question pertaining to how to set your external meter. Looks to me like you have made a calculation mistake there (possibly just a typo). I read you as saying that you shot your test with the light meter set to 1/60th then ...

The camera and lens manufacturer have put the numbers in the right place. When it is on 2.0 it has effective opening of 2.0 and brings this onto the film. They have compensated for the light loss in the beamsplitters or where ever like coatings and glass-transmission-rate at design time. 30 years a...

If you corrected the shutterspeed with a third stop (as here in this example) you can just read the aperture from your meter and use that. But somewhere, with external metering, the light taken away by the prism and lens has to be taken in account either via the aperture, shutterspeed or asa. Kind r...

When a film's ASA is 200D/160T means that it is slightly less sensitive to tungsten light that it is to sunlight (due to UV rays and those things), and not directly related with the filter. Your B&W film without the filter, will act as 200 ASA under daylight, and also without the filter as 160 ...

Forget that mess with the Tri-X ASA, because it is really a 160 ASA film and not 200. It will be perfectly exposed as 160 (by experience). That is probably a result of the light loss by the prism and lens; you need that extra 1/3 stop exposure because of the loss of light. mmm but don't Super8 came...

I am close to making a new film, this time with the Nikon R10 and Tri x, but can't make my mind up as to what shuttertime to use (as usual). I made a test film with kodak 100D, last year, projected it and am not sure what looks best. I used a shuttertime of 1/60 second for measuring and found that 1...

MIKI-814 wrote: Forget that mess with the Tri-X ASA, because it is really a 160 ASA film and not 200. It will be perfectly exposed as 160 (by experience).

That is probably a result of the light loss by the prism and lens; you need that extra 1/3 stop exposure because of the loss of light.


Paul